Step 3: Yes! Do not dampen a cloth and wipe the area. Brush in the direction of the grain. Do you Need to Seal Wood After Staining it? Thank you! Fills in wood grain after staining for a smooth finish. Major upgrade! Great stain color! To counteract this, you can sand a bit. Brush the stain. You can also practice using scrap lumber, so you get a feel for the process and products that seem to work best for you and yield the final result you want for the piece you are creating. Check boxes below for what you want to see—I won't send you anything else. (This post contains affiliate links. Imagine that the first piece of wood was sanded with 120-grit sandpaper. Ace's recommendation is good to build up a few layers then sand with 320. … That will only raise the grain of the wood even more, and you will simply have to repeat the entire process again. Q: My childhood dresser is beautiful but the wood stain looks faded. You don’t need to use too much; a little bit goes a long way. Remember, you put the stain on unfinished wood, so you need to seal the stain … It’s okay if you want to stain a finished piece of wood…you just have to sand everything off first! I didn’t think I needed it because the wood wasn’t soft but the stain soaked in so unevenly and looked pretty awful. He also holds a bachelor's degree in English from Iowa University. Ultimately, our recommendation is that you avoid sanding after staining or simply use a very gentle scuff sanding method if you notice roughness. The aggressive scratches of the sandpaper leave more scratches, so when you add stain on top of that, the pigment particles in the stain have more places to lodge and add that darkening effect. If you are not sure how firmly to sand, watch a video that demonstrates the “scuff sanding” technique. If you are planning to use white pine, limit yourself to light stains only. It’s important to wipe away excess stain as you apply each coat. Oak, ash, and chestnut handle stain well, but wood such as maple, poplar, and birch do not handle stain … Require only soap and water for clean-up. Basically, conditioner will stabilize the wood to allow stain to penetrate more evenly. Try aluminum oxide sandpaper if you have a large surface to work over. If you want a very smooth, finely sanded surface, try a higher grit, like 150 or 180, or even higher depending on the project. Yes! Pine is another species of tree whose natural and open grain may be more susceptible to a rough, unattractive look when you try to stain it. If you do not sand well, and you simply do a rough job of it, you will have exposed, open cells in the grain that soak in too much stain and create a much greater, darker contrast than you are probably looking for. You don't need to remove all of the old stain to apply darker stain. Apply the stain to the panels first, you will need to use a brush to get the stain into the grooves and corners. Remember, you put the stain on unfinished wood, so you need to seal the stain to protect it. You don’t need to remove or sand out all the color from a stain… If you worry about the grain raising after staining i would recommend wetting the surface evenly with water after doing initial sanding then finish sand when dry. Applying polyurethane after staining is a little trickier, but the ability to sand out issues and apply multiple coats makes it pretty forgiving as well. Brush a coat of polyurethane varnish onto the surface, then finish … Some finish also needs around 72 hours of the drying process. It basically fills in the pores and sinks in between the fibers of the wood, creating a barrier against moisture, which could cause rot and weakening of the wood. The polyurethane with smooth it out further as you apply additional coats. That way, you won’t have sticky buildup to deal with when it’s time to move on and add a fresh layer. If you want to hear from me, drop your email below! Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Step 4: When the first coat of polyurethane dries, grab the #220 grit or higher sandpaper and very lightly do a quick sand over the entire piece. After the stain has dried, it’s time for the first finishing coat. Me too. With those you would be better off to stop at 120 or 150. We will also discuss the important question, “Do you sand after staining?”. Dry faster, enabling you to stain and finish in one day. For previously finished wood, yes, you need to sand before applying gel stain. Apply the stain to the wood liberally with a sponge or soft cloth. Sometimes referred to generically, lacquer and varnish are not the same thing. Please click the link in the email I just sent you—I just need to confirm it's really you to prevent spam :), Copyright by Brittany Goldwyn, 2020 | Trellis Framework by Mediavine. Watch for side drips. That is certainly an option; however, it is important to note that paint does not provide the same kind of protection that stain does. our recommendation is that you avoid sanding after staining or simply use a very gentle scuff sanding method if you notice roughness. - I want to make sure that the stain will not rub off on the bedding. Removing Stain Set out a drop cloth or a thick layer of newspapers and place the wood object on top of it. Do a clean job at the joints, staying with the wood grain direction. Otherwise, you end up with darker overlapping edges where you ended and then picked up again. You need to wait for one to two days in most cases. Open and stir your stain. For a darker look, you can do multiple layers of stain … Cherry, mahogany, and similar woods don’t need much or any color, so it’s best to use light or transparent stains, so the natural grain and colors shine through. Applying stain is so forgiving–you don’t have to worry about brush strokes because unfinished wood is going to soak in your stain however it wants to soak it in. Others will need additional protection from wear and the elements. You may be wondering if you can simply use paint over the wood and leave it at that. I love staining wood. Isn’t it pretty? And yes, staining is a fantastic way to add character and warmth to your project! Press Esc to cancel. Certain types of wood just don’t work well with traditional stains. No spam; unsubscribe anytime. Wipe the stain on with a rag, and brush it into the corners and grooves. But the result in the end is worth it! You have to have the right tools, the right kind of wood for the project, and plenty of time for the longer stages of the process, like sanding and finishing. One more thing to keep in mind is that sandpaper, while it has a smoothing effect overall, tends to open up the grain of the wood more, especially when you are using a coarser type of sandpaper. It can serve as a barrier to some moisture, especially if you use a water-resistant exterior paint, but it will eventually chip, thin, or flake off, and then the wood underneath will be completely vulnerable. There are a few important things to remember, do not sand at this stage if you do you will risk sanding through the stain … Type above and press Enter to search. Some hardwoods will "close up" and hardly except your stain if you sand all the way to 220 grit. And the process isn’t as difficult as you probably think it is, either. Sand a few times, with progressively finer grit sandpaper. you don’t need to sand after staining. To counteract this effect, try using a pre-stain or conditioner on the wood before you stain it. That means that it has no primer, paint, or finish of any kind on it. This will smooth out the surface and get rid of the bubbles that didn’t pop when the first coat was drying. Minwax tends to be the go-to name in pre-stains and pre-treatment, so if you are not sure where to begin, we would suggest starting out with a good Minwax wood conditioner, followed by a high-quality stain. Overlapping stain … Start at the top and work your way down. Some manufacturers may include recommendations for sanding after staining or between coats, while others do not. Some projects may be fine with only a coat of stain. It will bubble as you brush it on. You will need to let the stain dry for about 48 hours before you can varnish … But you do need to remove all of the lacquer, varnish or anything that will prevent new stain from absorbing into the wood. Are lower in odor than oil-based stains. When using Water Based Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner, allow it to penetrate for 1-5 minutes, then remove any excess. Couple of suggestions. Thank you, Angie!! However, keep in mind that if you sand too much, you are going to lose the color and protective nature of the layer of stain that you just put on. Stain usually cannot be removed after application, so it’s better to apply thinner coats and add more as needed, rather than apply too much and have a darker color than you want. Cherry, mahogany, and similar woods don’t need much or any color, so it’s best to use light or transparent stains, so the natural grain and colors shine through. Note: There are a number of finishes you can use. Two coats is often enough, but you can repeat step #4 and do a third coat if you’d like. It’s such a nice way to upgrade a low-end piece of furniture. Step 1: If you didn’t have to strip a finish off of your piece, go ahead and use a fine grit (like#220) sandpaper to polish your piece. Then, using tack cloth, wipe down the piece to remove any small pieces of dust. So I applied another coat of stain on top, thinking it would even things out. Many of the bubbles will also pop as the finish dries. For additional water resistance and durability, you can add a layer of polyurethane, shellac, lacquer, or some other type of sealer. Paint thinner works best for thinning varnish. Water-Based Stains. 5. I did a third coat on my piece because I am popping this on top of a little Ikea dresser and expect it to get a decent amount of traffic. //